Two years ago, the Museum of Art in Philadelphia had a beautifully curated exhibit on Roberto Capucci.
His work evolved from wearable fashion to fashion as art to art inspired by fashion. One of the most inspirational designers of the 20th century, Capucci explored fabrics, geometric shapes, and the way they fit around the human body. His work, however, went further than haute couture and runway shows. His works became are sculptures not even intended for wear.
One of my favorite pieces by him is an ombre sculpture dress with pleated silk in layers around the skirt area.
The Art Museum has a beautiful short blurb on Capucci as well.